Discovering the Whale Valley — Wadi Al Hitan
Less than 100 miles south-west of Cairo in the Faiyum Governorate of Egypt lies a paleontological site unlike any other in the whole world. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2005 because of the sheer number and concentration of fossils of one of the earliest forms of whale called the Archaeoceti. This type of whale is now extinct but is crucial for helping answer one of the greatest mysteries of the evolution of whales which is how they became marine mammals when they were initially land-based animals. The fossils show the whales in the last stages of losing their hind limbs. Other fossil material in the site makes it possible to reconstruct the surrounding environmental and ecological conditions of the time which dates back 40 million years ago.
The first fossil skeletons of whales were discovered in 1902. For the following 80 years though they attracted relatively little interest mainly because it was quite difficult to reach the area. In the 1980s, as four wheel drives (4WD) became more readily available, the interest in the site resumed and the site was being visited by fossil collectors and many bones were being removed, which prompted calls for the site to be conserved. The strata in Wadi Al Hitan belong to the Middle Eocene epoch and contains extensive vertebrate fossils within a 200km2 area. The large concentration and the excellent quality of preservation of the fossils in Wadi Al Hitan is unusual and makes it one of the most unique paleontological sites in the world.
The most conspicuous fossils are the skeletons and bones of whales and sea cows, and over several hundred fossils of these have been documented. The fossils of whales vary from single bones to entire skeletons, and a number of partial skeletons are currently on display in the public part of the park. The two common whales found are the large Basilosaurus which can get to 21m long and the smaller 3-5m Dorudon. At least two other species are known from rarer remains. The whales possess small hind limbs which are not seen in modern whales, as well as a powerful skull with teeth similar to those of carnivorous land mammals. The presence of fossils of other early animals such as sharks, crocodiles, sawfish, turtles and rays found at Wadi Al Hitan makes it possible to reconstruct the surrounding environmental and ecological conditions of the time, adding to its justification to be cited as a World Heritage site. Since part of Wadi Al Hitan was made public to attract tourists to the valley, walkways between the main fossils have been laid out and small shelters built. This public park is now regularly visited by tourist groups, and a small camp site is present.
Other than the amazing skeletal remains, Wadi Al Hitan is also home to 15 species of desert plants and about 15 types of wild mammals such as the Egyptian wolf, red fox, African leopard, Egyptian mongoose, African wildcat, and dorcas gazelle. The most commonly seen type of mammal are the Fennec foxes which regularly visit camp sites at night. The sand dunes surrounding the valley are great for activities like sand boarding. Wadi Al Hitan is located behind a mountain known as Garet Gohannam which translates to “the mountain of hell” because in the light of the setting sun, the mountain seems ablaze with an eerie red light. And at night after all light has gone, the clear sky away from the light pollution of cities glitters and sparkles allowing for a mesmerizing stargazing experience. All in all, Wadi Al Hitan is the perfect day or weekend trip from Cairo catering to a wide range of interests, whether you’re seeking an outdoor adventure with a hike or sand boarding activity or for astrophotographers looking to capture the light of the stars. I have to say Wadi Al Hitan is particularly exciting for the young ones and is in fact a popular school trip destination. There are a few shaded alcoves, but this trek is not easy in the summer so Wadi Al Hitan is a more popular destination during the cooler October to April months. If you’re visiting Wadi al-Hitan in the heat, wear plenty of sunscreen, pack a hat and some iced water.
The Fossil and Climate Change Museum (Image Credit)
Today, despite attempts to boost tourism in the area with the opening of the Fossil and Climate Change Museum, still about 1,000 visitors a year drive to Wadi Al Hitan because the track is unpaved and crosses unmarked desert sands. For the most part, visitors to Wadi Al Hitan are foreigners, who usually camp in the valley on winter weekends. Because the Whale Valley is within the Wadi El Rayan Protected Area, the same protection management plan restricts visitors to prearranged guided tours along a prescribed trail. Sustainable tourism is beginning to develop and grow in the area, and the 4WD are alternatively being replaced by foot or camel treks.