Mersa Matrouh: Egypt’s Forgotten Mediterranean Pearl

Kenzy Fahmy

Matrouh, a small but ancient fishing town, lies a few hundred kilometers to the west of Alexandria, just a short distance from the Libyan border, and it is undoubtedly one of the North Coast’s most underappreciated spots. Egypt’s Mediterranean coastline is surprisingly difficult to reduce to mere words on a page; what it is today, what it was fifty years ago, and what it was thousands of years ago. Not only is the coastline one of the most beautiful in the world, its long and varied history is incredibly rich and endlessly fascinating.

The Corniche Of Mersa Matrouh Image Credit

Mersa Matrouh is definitely no exception. The town has played a central role in Egypt’s history since ancient times, acting as an important border and harbor. American archaeologist Oric Bates’ 1913-14 excavations produced fragments of pottery, glass, copper and more that date back to the late bronze age, through greco-roman times and later Arab rule. But Bates also found evidence of settlement in Matrouh that goes back much further than the Bronze Age, including structures that suggest settlement began here as early, if not earlier, than the 2nd millenium BCE.

Around 20km to the west of the city lie the 13th century BCE ruins of a temple dedicated to Ramses II and an ancient fortress known as Zawyet Umm al-Rakham, or “Resthouse to the Mother of Vultures”, most likely built to protect Egypt’s western border from invasions by Libyan tribes.

Temple of Ramses II Image Credit

During Alexander’s time, the town was known as Amunia, a reference and tribute to its, and his, connection with the Temple of Amun that lies to the south in Siwa Oasis; Matrouh was and still is considered to be the gateway to Siwa. It was there, it is said, in the Temple of Amun, that Alexander the Great made a sacrifice to the great God and asked to become Amun’s son, cementing his role as the divine ruler of Egypt.

Just a short distance from the center of modern Matrouh lie another set of ‘ruins’, this time dating back to the reign of Egypt’s most famous queen, Cleopatra. Just off the coast, easily accessible on foot when the tide is low, stand two large rock formations surrounded by crystal clear turquoise waters. Within the larger formation rests a small cave, carved out by the waves, and later by the ancient Egyptians, to create a small pool. By far one of the most stunning parts of the coast, and there are many, Cleopatra’s Bath is said to be the location where the queen came to bathe with Marc Anthony, protected by the cave from spying eyes.

Cleopatra’s Bath Image Credit

Later, during Greco-Roman times it was called Paraitonion, or Paraetonium in Latin, which evolved into al-Baritun after the Arab conquests. Matrouh also played a key role during the WWII battles that took place in Egypt, serving as an important British military base and the final stop on the new railway that ran along the coast. The Germans, namely Rommel’s Afrika Korps, were able to capture the base during the Battle of Mersa Matrouh in June 1942, but it was lost to the Allies once again during the Second Battle of Alamein in November.

Exactly eighty years later, the city has become a tranquil fishing town once again, and it has much to offer. When we talk about the North Coast, most people think of Alexandria or one of the many developments that line the long stretch of stunning coastline. Few still think of Mersa Matrouh as a worthy destination, even though it was incredibly popular during the 50s all the way up to the 80s and early-90s, along with Agami, another popular beach town located just to the west of Alexandria.

Changing trends in development meant that most Egyptians who can, now frequent the private beaches that span the middle of the coast, and places like Mersa Matrouh have been mostly forgotten. But Matrouh remains one of Egypt’s most beautiful and underrated places, and some are starting to see that.

Agiba Beach Image Credit

The town itself has a beautiful albeit very simple Corniche, far from the size and splendor of Alexandria’s, but still with plenty of charm and a number of excellent seafood restaurants. You’ll also find Rommel’s Beach, along with the Rommel Museum, on the eastern side of the city in front of the harbor. The beach itself is very beautiful, despite its namesake, and the museum, uniquely carved into the side of a mountain, displays some of the commander’s personal belongings, as well as guns, ammunition and other war memorabilia.

A visit to the Libyan market, where you’ll find some amazing products from Siwa and from our neighbors to the west, is also highly recommended. The olive oil here is really something else, usually made from organic olives using ancient stone presses, and you can find some great North African harissa paste here as well.

With some of the country’s most stunning beaches, and the competition here in Egypt is fierce, this quaint little fishing town should be much higher on everyone’s list. From the cliffs and caves of the iconic Agiba Beach to the soft white sand dunes of El-Obayed, the beaches here are truly surreal and unlike anything you’ll see elsewhere. Although, be warned, they can get very crowded during the summer weekends so it’s always best to go during the week or just off the main season, which lasts as long as schools are out. Accommodation options here are also limited and day-trips or stop-overs are common, with many driving over for the day from one of the more popular beach developments to the east, or making a stop on their way to Siwa.

Matrouh really is one of this country’s forgotten gems, and this beautiful, ancient little town is worthy of rediscovery. There is so much to see in Egypt, and sometimes it takes a trip off the beaten path to see just how much beauty we have here.