The Ins and Outs of Ramadan in Egypt: A Cultural Guide (Part II)

By Kenzy Fahmy

Ramadan is truly a beautiful time of year, filled with playfully colorful decorations, the warmest of atmospheres and wonderfully vibrant celebrations, with fascinating variations in the way people celebrate in different parts of the world. But navigating the cultural norms and expectations can seem like a daunting task. Even locals will sometimes disagree on what is considered proper etiquette and what isn’t, and in many cases there is more than one way of doing things. But there are some basic tips and rules that everyone tries to abide by, not only out of respect for those around us, but also very often out of a sense of solidarity and support. One of the most beautiful things about Ramadan is its ability to bring people together, be it across a family dining table or across borders and cultures. It’s a time to unite under a common goal to be good, kind, and compassionate.

Don’t forget though that this year is unlike any other; the coronavirus has turned our lives upside down and people are struggling to get by. It is absolutely crucial that we all remember to stay safe this year, especially in social gatherings, and that it’s more important than ever to support those in need.

To help guide you through Ramadan, we’ve put together a few tips on how best to approach the Holy Month, whether you’re an expat who just recently joined our community or you just want to make sure you’re doing it right. Of course, nothing is set in stone, and Egypt can be a diverse place; you’ll find people who practice in different ways and you’ll find those who don’t practice at all. The important thing is that we all be sensitive and respectful of each other, regardless of background or belief.

Eating and Drinking                                         

Whether you’re fasting or not - foreigners or non-Muslims are by no means expected to - it’s important to still be considerate of those who do. Most restaurants and cafes are still open and will serve you during the day, and in neighborhoods like Maadi and Zamalek, you’ll find that the atmosphere is a bit more laid back, but try not to eat or drink (or smoke) in crowded or public spaces like the streets, banks and government offices. Those who do practice, fast from sunrise to sunset, with the two main meals of the day being iftar (breaking the fast) and sohoor (a light meal eaten late at night or right before sunrise that helps people get through a long day of fasting).

If you choose to eat out, or order in, just bear in mind that the entire country follows the same schedule during Ramadan. Iftar can be a hectic time and many places change their menus for the duration of the month, some even stop serving a couple of hours before sunset so they can prepare for the iftar rush. But if you avoid the busy times you should have no problem at all, and might not even feel any difference.

Alcohol is a big no-no in Ramadan; bars must close for the month and most restaurants will stop serving any alcoholic drinks until Eid (the end-of-Ramadan feast), even local retailers like Drinkies and Cheers stop selling. The few exceptions can usually be found in hotels and touristic areas, where drinks are served only to those with foreign passports.

Iftar and Sohoor Gatherings

Since Ramadan is about in a very big way about people coming together, invitations for iftar and sohoor are common. From family and friends to colleagues, it’s all about celebrating together and eating together. If you’re invited over to someone’s house make sure to bring something with you! The traditional choice is dessert, but lately, many of the well-known patisseries have introduced programs where you can donate a dessert to charity instead, which many appreciate; you’d be amazed at how quickly the dessert table can fill up when you have upwards of 20 guests. People normally arrive no more than 15-20 minutes before it’s time to eat, and gather around an almost overwhelming amount of food as soon as the azan, or the call to prayer, signals that they can finally break their fast.

Because of the pandemic, large gatherings are limited compared to previous years. But it’s still very important to keep in mind the safety measures that help protect us against the coronavirus.

What to Wear

Ramadan is not just about fasting, it’s also about reconnecting with your faith and banishing any impure thoughts, but that doesn’t necessarily mean you need to dress differently. It’s generally recommended to dress modestly in most places around Egypt anyway, regardless of the time of year. Women who aren’t veiled certainly shouldn’t feel the need to cover their hair, but a scarf is always good to have handy in case you want to wrap something around your shoulders. You will find though that neighborhoods like Maadi and Zamalek, as well as areas that see a lot of tourism, carry on almost as normal.

Business Hours

As with food, businesses all over the country switch over to the Ramadan schedule, which usually means the day begins about an hour later, and for many, including schools and most government offices, ends by around 3pm. Those that stay open later will often close for iftar and open again at around 8pm, just after the evening prayers. Most large shops, including supermarkets and pharmacies, will keep their usual business hours so you should still always be able to find something open.

Traffic

The flow of traffic shifts slightly in Ramadan, with rush hour moving to around 2-3pm, some very frantic driving just before iftar, and the most blissfully empty streets for about an hour or two while the country breaks its fast and enjoys some down time at home before heading back out to meet up with friends over a shisha and a game of cards or dominoes. Do keep in mind that people are hungry and thirsty, as well as nicotine and caffeine-deprived, so tensions can run a little high during the day; it’s always best to let things go with a smile and a friendly ‘Ramadan Kareem’.

Giving a Little Extra

Charity is in many ways the backbone of Ramadan traditions, and a great way to offer support to those who are struggling, and there’s really an endless number of ways you can do so. Choose your cause, and give what you can, it need not be much. Egyptians often give extra cash to people like their bawab, drivers and housekeepers, as well as prepared boxes of cooking essentials like oil, sugar and pasta. Many will donate clothes and other necessities to orphanages, hospitals and the homeless. And of course there is the ma’edet el rahman, large communal tables set up in the streets all over Egypt to feed just about anyone and everyone. You’ll even find people standing in the street at sunset in case anyone is still on the road when it’s time to break their fast. It’s a heartwarming display of community support and love, and what makes it even more special is that everyone takes part, regardless of nationality or faith.