The Oases of Egypt’s Western Desert
By Kenzy Fahmy
With more than 90 percent of the country’s landscape being made up of desert, we can easily say you’d be missing out on some really exceptional experiences by not exploring Egypt’s sandy wilderness. With the Eastern Desert stretching from the Nile all the way to the Sinai Peninsula and the Western Desert extending into the Sahara and across to the Libyan border, there’s no shortage of fascinating places to discover. And of course, what would desert exploration be without also visiting the green havens that so many Bedouin communities call home.
While the Eastern Desert does have a number of small oases, it’s the ones on the western side of the Nile that are really worth seeing. From the more northern oases of Fayoum and Siwa to Bahariya, Farafra, Dakhla and Kharga further south, each oasis has its own story and elements that make it unique, but all are steeped in rich heritage and traditions that bridge the world of the nomads with that of settled communities. Of course by now modernity has infiltrated all these worlds, with new roads making many of the isolated oases more accessible and more open to development. But the old ways live on, and traces of ancient ways of life can be found wherever you look, whether it’s the Berber culture of Siwa or the Wahatis of Bahariya and the tribes to the south.
These oases were, and still are, all vital stops along ancient caravan routes that nomads and traders used to travel from the western coast of Africa all the way to the Red Sea and on to the Arabian Peninsula. Now, they serve as gateways to the vast Sahara desert and capsules that have preserved longstanding traditions and ways of life that are unique to desert-dwelling communities.
Fayoum
By far the most accessible of Egypt’s oases, Fayoum has a lot to offer, whether it be desert expeditions, traditional handicrafts, delicious local food, or the one-of-a-kind outdoor museum in Wadi Hetan (Valley of the Whales). Because it’s only an hour or two outside of Cairo, Fayoum is perfect for day or weekend trips, with some really special accommodation options. In the heart of the oasis lies Tunis Village, a beautiful and incredibly lush compound with some wonderfully rustic hotels as well as apartments and villas you can rent through AirBnB. Tunis is known for its pottery workshops, with a thriving community of artisans and some incredible pottery collections that are well worth exploring. You’ll also find some excellent local food here, from feteer meshaltet to delicious roasted duck, two specialties of the oasis that are a must-try. Heading out of the oasis and into the desert, we have Wadi Rayan, a massive nature reserve that could easily take several days to explore. From ancient ruins and prehistoric fossils of whales and other aquatic creatures, to the waterfalls and the soft sand dunes, Wadi Rayan and Wadi Hetan deserve at least a day of exploration if you want to get the most out of your trip.
Siwa
Lying just 50 km from the Libyan border, getting to Siwa is no easy feat. Bus rides can take up to 12 hours, while a trip by car can be made in about 9, but the long journey to Egypt’s most isolated oasis is more than worth it. With a vibrant Berber community and deep ties with ancient Egyptian and Greek cultures, Siwa is a totally unique and deeply mystical place, with heritage and traditions that go back many thousands of years. At the heart of the oasis is the Shali, an incredibly dynamic ancient city built out of clay taken from the stunning and completely surreal salt lakes that surround the area. Siwa is also home to the Oracle of Amun, an ancient temple known for being an important stop on Alexander the Great’s journey through Egypt – the Oracle apparently confirmed Alexander’s belief that he was the rightful ruler of Egypt. And of course, Siwa’s natural beauty cannot go without mention. Seemingly endless palm forests and olive groves are mirrored in the salt lakes the surround the oasis, along with the vast desert and natural springs all give this oasis its unforgettable and magical charm.
Bahariya
Bahariya, only a few hundred kilometers from Cairo, is inhabited by the Wahatis, an ancient North African tribe that settled in the oasis thousands of years ago. Archaeologists have even found evidence of Neolithic communities within the Bahariya depression (an area of land that lies lower than its surroundings), as well as Pharaonic artifacts that suggest the ancient Egyptians also settled here, all the way up to the 26th dynasty and Greco-Roman times. There are a number of temples and tombs in and around the oasis to explore, from the Qasr el-Miqisba temple of Alexander the Great to the Valley of the Golden Mummies necropolis that was discovered in the 90s.
Farafra
Lying just south of Bahariya, Farafra is yet another ancient settlement, known for its wells and hot springs, as well as for being a popular gateway to the White Desert, also accessible from Bahariya. Less than 50km to the north of the town, the White Desert is perhaps one of Egypt’s most spectacular sights, with snow-white rock formations made up of ancient limestone sediment that has been sculpted by sand and wind into surreal structures that look like they came out of a science fiction movie. Farafra also leads to the Black Desert and Crystal Mountain, two more stunning landscapes worth visiting in the Western Desert.
Dakhla
Further south from Farafra is Dakhla, a collection of small settlements that make up the greater oasis. Lush olive groves and palm forests make this one of the greener and more beautiful oases of the Western Desert, and the ancient ruins only add to the experience. The oasis is most known for the medieval town of Qasr al-Dakhla, a sprawling maze of mud-brick buildings that date back to the 10th century. Dating even further back are the tombs of Al-Muzawaka, which are thought to have been built during the Pharaonic era, and Deir el-Hagar, or Monastery of Stone, a Roman temple built during the rule of the infamous Emperor Nero and dedicated to the ancient Egyptian gods, Amun-Ra, Mut, Seth and Khonsu.
Kharga
The southernmost oases of the Western Desert, Kharga is also the most modernized of Egypt’s oases. Like many of the others, Kharga was an important stop for trade when travelling caravans still roamed the earth. Because of its southern location, it was used as a resting place along a route called Darb el Arba’in, or the Forty Day Road, that stretched from north to south into Sudan. Because of its important role in ancient trade, Kharga boasts some impressive forts built during the Roman era, as well as some beautiful ruins that date back to the 6th century BC, including Qasr al-Dush and the Temple of Osiris. Lying just over 600km south of Cairo, Kharga is the last stop before the Sudanese border, and although less frequented by tourists, it’s still worth a visit.